Structured fabrics for apparel are born from a precise weaving process, where the final effect is determined by the way the warp threads, parallel to the selvedges, interlace with the weft threads, perpendicular to the selvedges.
The term “weave” refers both to the set of operations required to set up the loom for weaving and to the way warp and weft threads interlace. A weave therefore defines the type of fabric that a given weaving will produce.
Every weave gives the fabric its soul and structure: depending on the crossings determined by the movements of the loom, unexpected, original and unique effects are created.
How to recognize a structured cotton
Simply observe the surface of the fabric: structured weaves show continuous diagonal lines, more or less pronounced depending on the density of the interlacing. Tilting the fabric toward a raking light makes the diagonal evident, while to the touch the hand feel is firm, compact and consistent across the entire roll.
The density of the interlacing also defines the character of the final garment: a more open weave returns looser hands and light-catching surfaces, while a tighter interlacing gives structure and resilience to winter trousers and outerwear.
Piquet, dobby and broken twill effects: playing with the fabric
Thanks to state-of-the-art weaving techniques, our structured cottons feature three-dimensional effects: piquet, dobby, broken twill and slub.
The distinctive interlacings of warp and weft, combined with the use of premium raw materials, deliver unique effects, with hands that are firmer or looser depending on how open the weave is, and therefore on how tightly the threads are bound in the interlacing. This is where the fabric acquires its identity: every weave gives character to the garment, with no need for added decoration.
For the Spring Summer season, Pontex also “plays” with untied effects, thanks to the particular construction of the fabric
art. 01618/P05 MICHELLE PXT 100% COTTON width 147/150 weight 150m2 230 mtl
For the Spring Summer season, Pontex also “plays” with effects like knitting, that make the piece of clothing likewise a comfortable sweatshirt.
art. 01516/P05 ELARA STRETCH PXT 98% COTTON 2%ELASTOMER width 143/146 weight 195m2 285mtl
Pure cotton and stretch cottons: comfort and fit
Our structured cotton collections are made with premium raw materials: natural one hundred percent cotton fabrics and stretch cottons, where cotton meets elastane to deliver comfort and maximum fit, along with resilience and durability for cold-season garments such as trousers and jackets.
The elastane, added in measured percentages, follows movement without distorting the diagonal: fit improves, structure remains.
Style office and quality control: where every fabric is born
Every fabric is designed inside our Style Office, which works in close collaboration with the Customer to propose new solutions, experiment with new interlacings and new techniques, and deliver increasingly exclusive products capable of meeting the demands of a discerning international clientele.
Quality control, always performed in-house, allows a visual, sensory and functional analysis of the fabric’s characteristics, to deliver a compliant product of the highest quality.
Discover our fabrics
Our structured cotton bases are continuously available through our Stock Service: checking warehouse availability and requesting color cards for your collections is the first step in designing your next garment.